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Vanille Tonka - a rainy day fragrance by Parfums de Nicolaï

Founder of the French brand of niche perfumery Parfums de Nicolaï is Patricia Nicolaï, granddaughter of Jean-Paul Guerlain and great-granddaughter of Pierre Guerlain. She was born in Paris, studied at the Higher International Institute of Perfumes, and then became the first woman in history to receive the highest award from the French Perfumery Community. In 1989, Patricia, together with her husband, created the brand Parfums de Nicolaï, which has produced 45 fragrances since its founding, while the hostess of the brand always preferred white flowers, abmres and natural smells of nature, nevertheless remaining faithful to Guerlain's traditions. In 2008, Patricia was awarded the Legion of Honor. And then they elected also the president of the world's first Perfume archive, which preserves the existing perfumes for history (2500 aromas have already been "archived", 400 of which are no longer available).
Today I would like to talk about the aroma for the upcoming autumn days and cold evenings by the fireplace - "Vanille Tonka" Parfums de Nicolaï.
For all collages, except the pyramid, their photos are used.

This fragrance is one of the few recently that was originally acquired not for a collection of travel memories, but simply like that. Just for the soul. Just out of love for the unusual variations of vanilla. Just for the sneaking September days - so that they seem more fun and warmer. But then, when I started to wear it, I realized that he brings back memories of cozy autumn evenings by the fireplace, in mountain houses in distant villages.

Description from the manufacturer (from Nicolaï's official website): Oriental. Floral. Spicy. Incense, vanilla and tonka bean. Mysterious and alluring aroma. Created in 1993
Aroma Composition:

My impressions of the fragrance: Paradoxically unsweetened vanilla - it envelops you from the first breath, warming it with astringent heat, like a cozy and slightly tingling wool pullover and fire in the fireplace. Outside the window, a late autumn storm is raging, or a blizzard is knocking on the window, and the heat of vanilla curls over your skin, tinted from the very first notes with the bitterness of lemon and tangerine zest, and completely devoid of “gourmandism” and “edibility”. And if in most vanilla perfumes this ingredient “sweetens”, gives away pastries or smiles as a child, then in Vanille Tonka it is strict and even “prickly”. Like many other Patricia Nicolai fragrances, created under the influence of the traditions of the Guerlain house, Vanille Tonka has a vintage spirit, making it comparable to the old and beloved warm “under the neck” sweater, with a worn checkered plaid, which are so nice to wrap in a winter house in the mountains, and watch, embracing with a dear person, as the fire coils and dances in the fireplace. The presence of tangerine peel takes us from autumn to blizzard Christmas or New Year's eve.

And as if after a flaming flame and a crack of firewood, after a while the bass incense motif connected to the lemon-vanilla theme, making the aroma deeper and more voluminous, more “woolen”. As if you are taking a deeper seat in a soft chair in front of a fire, pulling the neck of a pullover higher and inhaling the smell of oil-catching firewood. Many people do not like frankincense in perfumes, but in this composition it does not sound asphyxiating and not sharp - vanilla, tonka and citrus fruits do their “soothing-invigorating business”. The aroma is unstatic - it opens up and starts to play: sometimes cloves with a pinch of black pepper come to the forefront, or uncertain and subtle notes of cinnamon, but they eventually hide behind the triumphantly returned citrus vanilla and frankincense. The only note I could not hear was the smell of my favorite salad dressing - green basil. I really love its fragrance and recognize it from the first seconds, but I couldn’t catch it in Vanille Tonka.
The durability of this work by Patricia is very good, and after long hours on the skin there remains a spicy, but light and pleasant haze of already “fluffy-woolen” vanilla - still a bit of frankincense, but very cozy and calm.
Differences in sound on skin, paper, hair: The aroma should not be tried on a blotter - in combination with paper it sounds “crooked” and ugly and, most likely, immediately pushes you away with its bitterness, for which it is impossible to hear the vigor of citruses or the warmth of vanilla. It opens on the skin in a completely different way, instantly becoming interesting and enticing, it sounds more comfortable. A powerful frankincense is framed in the front rows in the hair, framed by a bright citrus zest. And on a woolen sweater, which I puffed for the sake of experiment, Vanille Tonka becomes more warm, sounds softer and deeper, the incense recedes.
About Luc Turin: The perfume critic evaluates the aroma only by 3 *, that is, considers it in principle to be “adequate and sound”, but at the same time he calls it “vanilla clove”.
Estimated price:
50 ml - 80 euros (now not available in this volume, and it’s quite difficult to find)
100 ml - 118 euros
P.S. Together with a bottle of Vanille Tonka I got 6 samplers of other aromas Parfums de nicolaï:
Vie de Chateau - with tobacco and hay
Odalisque - with lily of the valley
Mimosaique - With Mimosa
Balkis - with raspberry jam
Eau d'Ete - with grapefruit and jasmine
L'Eau Mixte - with mint and bergamot

Maybe I’ll do a brief review. While I periodically try to wear and write down feelings for myself.

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